Work in Progress

WORK IN PROGRESS

For someone like me, who comes from that city, it’s very refreshing to see all these positive changes. The city has a tremendous potential, but that potential needs to be properly presented. Improvements in the city’s infrastructure and the way the city looks will certainly benefit its residents and visitors.

Interestingly, there is a lot of opposition to these works. The argument is that Serbia is a poor country and that money should be invested to improve hospitals and general medical care. Perhaps, this is a valid argument. But an opposing argument can be made that a more attractive and interesting city would attract more tourists, which would generate more income, on a regular basis. Then, that income could be used to address other numerous problems, such as public transport, education, medical care and hospitals… In my opinion, the point is to ensure a regular source of income. That can be tourism, certainly much more than it is at the moment.

Anyway, we will see. I can only say that I’ve seen many foreign tourists in the past several days. It’s very good for the city’s economy and for many small business all over the city.

REPUBLIC SQUARE

In my original post about Belgrade, I mentioned the renovation of the city’s main Republic Square. I was in Belgrade exactly 6 months ago. At that time, the work had only just started. So, I went to see what they’ve done since then. The progress is clearly visible.

They have nearly completed the part of the square near the National Theatre and National Museum. But the opposite part of the square is still a very big construction site. It’ll take more time to finish everything.

I look forward to seeing it once the work has been completed and whether the square looks better now.

VOJVODA VUK PARK

Not far from there, there is another square within the pedestrian zone of Belgrade. That particular area was totally neglected for many decades, to the point that you would not even notice it when you pass by. But that’s changing now. The building below was covered in scaffolding 6 months ago. It beautifully adorns the edge of the square.

Sadly, Belgrade has many such buildings which are all in a terrible state at the moment.

This whole area is becoming a pedestrian zone which is really what it has to be, considering that it’s the oldest and most central part of the city. Also, there are more bars, restaurants and coffee shops than ever before. It’s becoming a stunning part of the city.

Once the works have been done and all buildings restored, it’ll become another focal point in that whole area.

Also, it is refreshing to see many restored buildings, with beautiful facades. For example, I’ve only ever known a building in the photo below as a horrible black, crumbling construction.

KARADJORDJEVA STREET

The same goes for many building in Karadjordjeva street. Potentially, that is the most beautiful part of the city. But it was also totally neglected for many decades.

I’ve also ever known buildings in this street as grey or black. It’s actually quite amazing to see, for the first time, how beautiful they are.

Another part of this street, on the right bank of the Sava river, is also under complete restoration. It’ll become a big promenade and Belgrade will finally get a proper access to the river.

BELGRADE WATERFRONT

All this work is done as part of currently the biggest construction project in Belgrade – the Belgrade Waterfront.

I’ve mentioned this project in my original article on Belgrade. The works are ongoing and, compared with the last time when I was in Belgrade, two more buildings have been nearly completed.

But the whole project is huge and it’ll take more years to finish everything. This was a totally derelict part of the city, with absolutely nothing.

BIG STAIRCASE – BELGRADE FORTRESS

There is more work in progress in other parts of the city. The 1928 big marble staircase in Belgrade Fortress is also under complete restoration.

The staircase was designed in the Romanticist style, incorporating elements of the Serbo-Byzantine revival. It was damaged in the Second World War.

It was only partially repaired after the war and neglected until 1989, when full reconstruction of the staircase was completed. But the material used, the limestone from an island of Brač, was not good. Because of its bad frost resilience, the steps started to crack. Further restoration in 2006 was bad again. The cracks were filled with cement and artificial stone, which accelerated the cracking.

The restoration finally started in March 2019. It will last until July 2019, as it’s written (in Serbian) in the work details below. But when the works started in March 2019, instead of restoring and repairing it, they smashed the staircase completely. Architects and art historians protested, but the city administration said: “This is the best way”.

Perhaps, the damage is beyond repair and these stairs need to be replaced with a completely new marble. As a matter of fact, I passed there 6 months ago, it was dangerous to walk on those stairs.

I don’t know how long it’ll be before I return to Belgrade after this visit. But considering all these and future scheduled works, it will certainly be very interesting to come back. In a way, it will be almost like coming back to a different city. I look forward to that.

But, in the meantime I am enjoying my current stay.