SHORT HISTORY OF CHORA CHURCH
Records suggest that the early history of the Chora Church stretches back to the 4th century. Other, arguably more reliable sources point to the foundation of the monastery in the 7th century. In the 8th and 9th centuries, Chora became a centre of resistance to Iconoclasm. In any case, the early evidence is scattered and somewhat unreliable.
The earliest part of the impressive structure that we see today dates to the 11th century. After the end of the Latin rule in Constantinople, the church fell into disrepair, ether due to earthquakes or neglect by the occupying forces.
The most significant restoration of Chora Church was carried out by Theodore Metochites, a Byzantine statesman, author, philosopher and patron of the arts, around 1315. A close advisor to Emperor Andronikos II Palaiologos, Metochites rebuilt the church and adorned it with the magnificent mosaics and frescoes that survive today.
OTTOMAN EXPANSION
While Chora was flourishing, the Ottoman army was laying siege to Bursa, which they captured in 1326. The threat to Constantinople was not yet immediate, as reflected in the continued expansion and embellishment of churches. Although the Byzantine Empire was steadily losing cities and territories, such losses did not seem to have halted artistic and architectural projects at the time.
However, after the fall of Constantinople in 1453, Chora, located close to the city walls, was among the first churches to be looted by the Ottoman forces.
In 1511, Atik Ali Pasha, Grand Vizier of Sultan Bayezid II, converted Chora into the Kariye Mosque. Chora later became a museum in 1945, but they once again converted it into a mosque in 2020.
CHORA CHURCH FRESCOES AND MOSAICS
Remarkably, despite serving as an Islamic place of worship for 434 years, the Chora Church preserved most of its artistic decoration. Was there perhaps a sense of reverence or restraint among the Ottoman when confronted with such extraordinary mosaics and frescoes? Could they have left it as a Christian Orthodox sanctuary? Unlikely, nearly all Byzantine churches were converted into mosques either immediately or shortly after the conquest of Constantinople.
I took photos for this post but, as with many historical sites, you really need to see Chora in person, to appreciate its full splendour and its significance to world heritage. The former church is included on UNESCO’s list of Historic Areas of Istanbul.
PAREKKLESION
OUTER NARTEX
INNER NARTEX
CHORA IS KARIYE MOSQUE
Kariye Mosque became a museum in 1945, only to be reconverted into a mosque in 2020. A simple internet search shows that Istanbul has more than 3000 mosques, a fact often highlighted proudly and perhaps rightly so.
My question is – was it truly necessary for this former Byzantine church, with such magnificent frescoes and mosaics, to become a mosque again? Was the latest conversion intended as a political statement?
The main issue, as you can see in the photo below, is that the mosaics in the naos are no longer visible. They are all covered, because the building is functioning as a mosque. What a pity.
I visited this remarkable site at the beginning of June 2024. I was fortunate not to have to pay an entrance fee, although I did go through rigorous security checks, which is entirely reasonable for protecting such a treasure.
However, if you check the official information, you will see that they have now begun charging 20 euros for entry, unless you are going there to pray. For comparison, the Louvre Museum in Paris charges 22 euros, while museums in London are free.
So, as with Hagia Sophia, you must pay a steep fee to enter what is officially a mosque. But Chora is either a mosque or a museum. If it is a mosque, no entrance fee should apply.
Regardless, if you visit Istanbul and you appreciate art, make the effort to see this extraordinary historic monument.
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